Friday, August 5, 2011

Day 3,4, and 5

Day 3 - Wednesday the surf was a little bigger in the 2-3 foot range. Most wind swell. Surfed with Greg and Ian at Abb for a dawn patrol .Water temp dropped.

Day 4 - Thursday A little more surf, but super shifty and Holy Cow the water was freezing, 60 degree the first week of August. My back was stiff and I paddled in circles. I was out of sink the whole session. Surfed with Lori, Greg and Ian.

Day 5 - Friday Surf continued to come up with a long period swell from hurricane Eugene. Mostly wind swell in the 2-3 zone with a bomb set in the 3-6 range every 20 minutes. Surfed from 3:45-4:30 and only caught two set waves but was stoked. The water temp popped back up to mid 60's. Still some real cold spots. Surfed with bird and Chris.

Prayer Update - Frustrated today when Michelle canceled her appointment with therapist. This is a real battle. I need more folks to pray with me for Michelle's courage and will to go through the healing process.

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